Why Sealcoating Fails

Sealcoating is a deceptively simple service that goes wrong in five common ways: applied to oily or dirty asphalt (no bond), applied too early on new asphalt (volatile oils trapped under sealer), applied too thick in one coat (cracking as it cures), applied in cold weather (won’t cure), or applied with a watered-down product (no protection, fast oxidation). Most of the failed sealcoat we see is from one of these five errors.

Symptoms of Failed Sealcoat

Peeling and flaking — usually means a bonding failure (oil, dust, or moisture under the sealcoat). Spider-web cracking — usually means too thick an application or rapid cure in cold weather. Bleeding through — sealer too thin and asphalt color showing through. Track-off — sealer never fully cured, picks up on tires and tracks into buildings. Slipperiness — sealer applied too thick or with wrong sand/aggregate ratio.

Restoration Process

Every restoration starts with diagnosis. We walk the lot, take photos, and identify the failure mode. Then we recommend the right fix: power wash and reseal (for minor surface failures), mechanical scarification and reseal (for bonding failures), or — in severe cases — abandon the sealcoat strategy and recommend an asphalt overlay (for cases where sealing the existing surface is not viable).

Power Wash and Reseal

Most common restoration. We power-wash the lot to remove failed sealer, dirt, and oils. Allow 24 to 48 hours of dry time. Apply oil-spot primer where needed. Apply two fresh coats of properly mixed commercial sealer. Re-stripe.

Choosing the Right Contractor This Time

Most failed sealcoat is the result of a contractor who under-priced the job, watered the product down to make margin, or skipped surface prep. We use undiluted commercial-grade sealer, two coats, with proper crack fill prep — every time. Our written scope specifies the product, the application rate, and the cure schedule, so you can verify what you paid for.

Frequently Asked Questions

Can you fix sealcoat that’s already cracking?

Yes — most failures are restorable. We power-wash, prep, and recoat with proper-spec product. Severe failures may need mechanical scarification first.

How do I know if it was applied wrong vs. just aging?

Failure within the first 12 to 18 months is almost always an application issue. Failure after 3 to 5 years is normal aging.

Can I get my money back from the original contractor?

Maybe, depending on warranty terms. We document the failure and provide a written assessment that supports a warranty claim.

Should I just stop sealcoating altogether?

No. Sealcoating done right doubles asphalt life. Stopping means accepting 50% shorter pavement life. The fix is a contractor who applies it correctly, not avoiding sealcoating entirely.

Need Help Now?

submit the form below for priority repair request review — we cover all 7 Chicagoland counties. Most sites within 2 to 4 hours. For non-emergency assessment, request a free estimate using the form on this page.

Identify why the coating failed before applying another

Peeling, tracking, uneven cure or premature wear can reflect preparation, incompatible material, excess application, weather, traffic return or an unsuitable pavement surface. Restoration begins with the failure mechanism.

Put these items in the written scope

Record affected areas and application history.
Review product compatibility and preparation.
Check weather and reopening conditions.
Remove unstable material by an appropriate method.
Test the proposed restoration before full application.

Failed Sealcoating Restoration